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Paul a Young flagship store in Soho

paul a young flagship store in Soho

Britain has been recently surprising gourmands from all over the world with its artisan products and with the level of their international competitiveness rising like a rocket to the moon in full speed. Chocolate is not an exception and there have been a number of “choco” stars rising over the recent years. One of them is Paul A. Young, the talented chocolatier that incorporates unusual flavours and adjusts them to current seasons in his chocolates. Paul is one of the rare chocolatiers based in a global city working in a truly artisan way. Everything is made by him and his team by hand at his London workshop and all ingredients are pure and natural. No artificial flavour enhancers or “made from a concentrate” juices are used.

Paul Young chocolates

Paul Young chocolates

AWARDS AND PRODUCTS

His creativity and quest for finding the right balance of flavours won him multiple awards including the ‘Chocolate Gold Winner’ in 2009 from the Academy of Chocolate and ‘Best Sea Salted Caramel in the World‘.

I have tried this highly celebrated piece of a sticky creamy, well-condensed and softly melting chocolate bar and must add that I cannot imagine a better choice with a cup of a deep roasted espresso (my barrister sister recommends Brazilian beans). The sticky caramel filling adds sweetness to your aromatic coffee and if you bite solely into it, you might be surprised with the slightly salty aftertaste that the salt in the caramel unveils. The final crescendo of salt serves to freshen up your palate after the sweet and sticky start. The dark chocolate from Madagascar (64%) enveloping the creamy caramel filling is tender, therefore I would recommend to put in the fridge for a while so you don’t end up with sticky fingers messy from chocolate and leaking caramel. It is quite fragile so handle it with care (otherwise it will end up like the one on the picture below) and savour in small amounts.

paul a young: Sea salted Caramel dark chocolate bar

paul a young: Sea salted Caramel dark chocolate bar

Another bar I have tried and liked a lot was:

67% SINGLE ORIGIN SANTO DOMINGO CARIBBEAN dark chocolate bar:

Smooth and milky texture even though there is no milk inside. Touch of natural hazelnut aroma coming from the cocoa beans adds complexity. Melts softly and is balanced and suitable for the dark chocolate beginners. Leaves long filling aftertaste and is enjoyable on its own.

His truffles, ganaches and chocolate bars range from £2 to £65.00 for a 42 piece box.

HISTORY

Paul worked as a head pastry chef for Marco Pierre White at Quo Vadis and Criterion restaurants in London and in 2006 he opened his first chocolate shop.

Today there are three chocolate boutiques in London including the flagship store on Wardour Street in Soho (addresses on the bottom).

Paul A Young

Paul A Young

PUBLICATIONS

His first book ‘Adventures with Chocolate’ won the ‘World’s Best Chocolate Book’ at the Gourmand Cookbook Awards in Paris. It discloses some of his recipes as well as gives you more insight into the cocoa world.

CHOCOLATE BOUTIQUES

I love the flagship store in London’s Soho. Entering the small but old times recalling boutique, equipped with wooden furniture, one senses that this is not just another sweet shop in a big city, but a place that is handled with care. The products are orderly displayed on trays and wooden shelves, there are some to be tasted on the spot as a treat, and during cold months there is a pot with a real thick hot chocolate, a warming cup of which you can take away. The shop assistants are very friendly, professional and helpful so do not hesitate to ask them anything so they can find the right treat for you. After all each of us might have different taste preferences, so if you do not like dark chocolate, you can have some delicious milk truffles and if you are adventures taste seeker, then you can try one of the Young’s unique creations. The cocoa bean printed wallpaper behind the counter not only looks great, but reminds what this place is really about – the great cocoa-based product – chocolate.

Paul a Young flagship store in Soho

Paul a Young flagship store in Soho

ADDRESS: flagship store is at 143 Wardour Street, Soho, London, W1F 8WA.

CONTACT: Tel: +(44) 020 7437 0011

OPENING HOURS: Every day of the week.

OTHER LONDON STORES:

33 Camden Passage, Islington, London, N1 8EA; Tel: +(44) 020 7424 5750. Open: Tuesday – Sunday

20, Royal Exchange, Threadneedle St, London, EC3V 3LP; Tel: +(44) 020 7929 7007. Open: Monday – Friday

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Turin: Alps and chocolate

Turin (in Italian: Torino) is known as the “Regal city of Italy”. It was here where the dukes of Savoy and later even the king of  Italy Vittorio Emanuele II. were located (he was from the Savoy line). The king, after the unification of Italy in 1861, made Turin the first capital of Italy (Florence was second since 1865 and later it was Rome remaining the capital until today). It is an irony that this city used to be a part of Savoy, today the French region with fancy ski resorts, but also a part of Piedmont that had been occupied by France.

Chocolate connections

Perhaps it was the French influence or the proximity of the highly elevated Alps, that set the stage for the chocolate love affair of Turin. The French are known for their penchant for delicatessen and the Alps for their cows giving milk ideal for smoothing the bitterness of dark chocolate. It is also the cold weather in the mountains that calls for a warming drink, so why not a cup of hot chocolate?

One fact is sure, chocolate was once a luxurious treat popular with the European royalty. Turin being once the site of the Royal Palace and the palaces of the dukes of Savoy, therefore needed a constant supply of this delicacy in the highest quality so it might had been the impetus for the chocolate makers such as Al Bicerin (founded in 1763) and Baratti & Milano (founded in 1858) to set their roots in Torino.

Classic dark hot chocolate

Producers mastering chocolate

These confectionery producers pioneered some types of chocolate such as making milk chocolate with the whole Piedmont’s hazelnuts – this is called GIANDUIA – and some hot chocolate drinks such as Bicerin.

The widely popular though still remains the classic dark hot chocolate, that is so exquisite at Baratti e Milano that it continues drawing hundreds of customers daily to their cafeteria on Turin’s main square. It is so thick and perfectly balanced that I wish I knew their secret recipe. Far from bitter or diluted, this is a concentrated dark chocolate drink that can be considered a meal by some people for how generous it is.

If plain dark chocolate is not satisfying your palate’s whims then adding some whipped cream may persuade you dipping into the cup of warm Ciocolate con panna (chocolate with cream). Crowned by a homemade thick and creamy whipped cream that your spoon has to force through hardly to find a dark spot of cocoa-rich substance underneath is the hot chocolate with cream at Al Bicerin, the oldest cafè in Turin.

Hot chocolate with “panna”

Bicerin also stands for a warm drink invented at this tiny caffé in the 18th century. It is an espresso with hot chocolate (secret recipe) and a cap of frothy milky fresh cream. Bicerin is served in a high transparent glass so you can admire the beauty of its layers. An energizing treat for a cold afternoon or to freshen up oneself after a church service (Al Bicerin is located just across from a magnificent church).

Bicerin: espresso with hot chocolate and frothy milk

Zabaione is another specialty, although with a dose of alcohol. The thick yellow drink is made from an egg yolk base with Marsala and sugar,and can be served with whipped cream and lady fingers. Zabaione is not a chocolate drink though and it sounds more like a dessert, but is often drunk with a chocolate cake.

There are many other special chocolate drinks to be savoured at these cafeterias in Turin.

Buying chocolate in Turin

Chocolate shops and brands are like mushrooms after the rain popping up all over Turin. You can buy chocolate slabs, grenache, truffles, grissini enveloped in chocolate, Italian panettone with chocolate, pasta with cocoa or just a simple powdered chocolate to make hot chocolate drink at home. Al Bicerin has it all and wrapped nicely to make a perfect gift for the sweet tooth members of your family or friends.

Piedmontese chocolate specialities

Baratti & Milano is a lovely historic caffè, where you can have breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as an afternoon cup of chocolate with a homemade cake or chocolate grenache. You can also buy chocolate bars from white to Grand Cru dark chocolates, luxurious chocolate truffles and other choco-based products. Their selection is wide so it is hard to choose one or two.I would recommend to get at least one bar from each category that you like. My penchant for dark chocolate left me with five large bars in hand so I had enough to taste later.

You can also find new successful brands making award-winning chocolate such as the Guido Gobino, which won a bronze medal from the Academy of Chocolate in 2011 for it is Natural Soluble Powder  for Hot Chocolate (€9.50 for 250g). The shop has its own luxurious tasting room where you can compare their different chocolates and pair them with different drinks.

Chocolate tasting room

Outdoors on the streets chocolate is a common feature on the farmers markets. Some of the sellers have wider selection than many special chocolate stores and supermarkets. From white chocolate with coconut flakes, straciatella flavour (you are in Italy after all), cantaloupe and cinnamon in milk chocolate to crispy rice and basil in dark chocolate, the creative mind of Italian chocolate producers does not know boundaries. Cioccolateria Marino is one such producer selling their inventions as well as classical types of chocolate every weekend on the market across from the Town Hall, built in 1659.

Chocolate seller at farmers market in Turin

With so many options and chocolate virtually on every street in the centre of the town, it is hard to resist and one gets seduced by a number of chocolate stores, caffès and boutiques. Leave some space in you luggage before your trip to Turin, it is worth for the tremendous quality chocolates they produce there.

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Angelina’s tearoom

Angelina Jolie may not be the sweetest bearer of this heavenly name. Angelina Tearoom at Rue du Rivoli is known for its best hot chocolate in Paris and heavenly desserts for which people stand in long lines day by day. Since 1903 this centrally located cafe has been attracting local connoisseurs as well as palate – conscious and pleasure-seeking tourists coming to Paris. Founded by an Austrian confectioner, it resembles the top grand cafès of Vienna with its chandeliers, mirrors and elegant chairs in the main room, yet it was designed by a great Belle Époque architect Edouard-Jean Niermans giving it a truly Parisian touch.

Cuisine: International with an emphasis on deserts.

Visit: April 2012

Price: High with main courses as well as sandwiches in the €20 and over level and deserts as a highlight over €10 a piece.

Head pastry Chef: Sébastien Bauer from Alsace, North-East France. His task is a very challenging one as he has to showcase Angelina’s heritage, while at the same time, incorporate contemporary dining trends into his recipes. He masters it very well. Just look below at his perfection-seeking (as nothing is perfect) creations.

Pastries selection at the tea room

Atmosphere: Elegant, pompous and haute as its customers once were the trend setters such as the fashion designer Coco Chanel, aristocrats or creative writers such as Marcel Proust. Today though, be prepared for hordes of tourists visiting from China to Brazil. Dress code is consequentially very relaxed. The rule basically is wear anything you had on you during your visit of Louvre or a stroll in the nearby park.

Food: The most popular are afternoons with a cup of hot chocolate and one of the Angelina’s deserts, yet great breakfasts and lunches are served as well. If you want to avoid the long queues then come early. From a simpler snack menu consisting mostly of luxurious sandwiches, through large lunch salads to proper main courses, one surely finds what his taste buds desire. I have not resisted the daily offer main dish of a pan-seared fish with crispy polenta on a bed of asian vegetables accompanied by a sweet and savory sauce with sweet potato tempura. East meets West in this refreshing yet rich meal. The fish was perfectly cooked, not too oily, just the right balance. The wheel of crispy polenta was tremendous and the veggies have lightened up its fried neighbors on the plate.

Pan-seared fish with crispy polenta

Desert is hard to choose, since there are so many and looking so delicious! If you are there for the first time I would recommend Angelina’s signature pastry the Mont Blanc. It is a meringue with sweet whipped cream and chestnut puree vermicelli rolled all over the top. It looks a bit funny, but its taste is unique. A cup of tea is ideal with it. Having a hot chocolate with this already creamy treat would be perhaps too much at once.

Millefeuille & a cup of espresso

Millefeuille a la Vanilla Bourbon is seductive as well. The thin layers of caramelized puff pastry filled with Bourbon vanilla cream are perfect with a cup of espresso.

Drinks: Hot chocolate L’African is a must, this rich, thick warm drink is served with a side-pot of whipped cream to soften it up how much you like. Wine list is also above satisfactory, although one does not feel like drinking alcohol at this magnificent tea room.

Opening hours & contact: Come for breakfast, lunch or an afternoon tea as Angelina is closed for dinner. Open Mon-Fri from 7:30am-7:00pm; Weekends from 8:30am-7:00pm. There are many new locations so you can choose the most convenient one for you.

Angelina at Rue du Rivoli by Louvre: +33 (0)1.42.60.88.50

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