In the 14th century the Pope Jean XXII chose Châteauneuf as a summer residence for the popes located at that period in Avignon. Perhaps, it was the need for a mass wine, that lead him to extend plantation of vines on the stony soil around the village. The vines were planted here already before as the Gauls and Romans cultivated vines and spread their tradition across Europe. The pope was though one of the first wine producers in Châteauneuf, soon to be called Châteauneuf du Pape (The pope’s new castle).
Chateauneuf-du-pape old village
It was not until the 18th century though before the wines of the Châteauneuf du Pape gained international fame. One of the most apt local wine growers was Marquis Tulle de Villefranche (former proprietor of today’s Château La Nerthe), who exported his wines through a network of dealers asking high prices, which many of his aristocratic clients did not hesitate to pay. It is a paradox today, that the majority of the French do not want to pay the high prices the wines of Châteauneuf du Pape dictate, but it is the profits from the 70% (approximately) which is being exported that makes the wine business there thrive.
Geography and soil
Settled between Avignon (South) and Orange in the North, Châteauneuf du Pape is located in the lowest part of the Rhône valley in France. It is known for its stony soil covered with galets roulés (oval-shaped stones). These reflect the sun, keeping moisture in the soil during the warm summer months. The reflected heat also assists with drying the grapes after rain so many diseases that thrive in wet conditions are kept on bay.
Grape varietals
The AOC Châteauneuf du Pape is unusual in that sense that 13 grape varietals are permitted in its red wines. Not all the châteaux though plant all of them. The two most famous though – Beaucastel and Domaine du Vieux Telégraphe – are including all of them in their vineyards.
Just for an illustration, look below at the picture (excuse me for the wine stains, I took it after a wine tasting, and the wine was served into glasses standing on this sheet of paper), where each of the local grapes’ contribution to the blend is explained very well.
Chateauneuf du Pape grapes
The village of Châteauneuf du Pape
The remains of the Papal castle are located away from the town’s centre and unless you get lost in the wine cellars lining the narrow cobbled streets you reach it within a five-minute walk. It has been ruined over the centuries, but it offers magnificent views across the Rhône valley, Luberon and even part of Avignon where the former Papal palace is located. The town’s heart is Place de la Fontaine, where the famous restaurant La Mére Germaine peers on the thirsty flocks of tourists from around the world.
Degustation at Chateauneuf-du-pape
“Proud of the wine called after me!”
The wine shops and tasting rooms
In the Place de la Fontaine’s proximity there are numerous wine tasting cellars offering wines from the different domaines. Most of them do not charge for the tasting, but you will surely please them if you buy the wines you liked the most directly from them. Their prices are better than in the restaurants and surely they will sweep the costs of these wines abroad.
Degustation at Caveau D’Brunel
Unusual bottle shape was not the first think that stroke my eyes at the family-owned Caveau d’Brunel. Rather it was the friendly and smiling lady that was offering the wines for tasting. She explained to us the story behind each wine and she was especially proud of a red blend named after her “Danièle Brunel“. The Brunel family owns vineyards in Châteauneuf du Pape, Côtes du Rhône Villages Rasteau and general Côtes du Rhône Villages appelations.
My absolute favorite from all the wines we tasted (including a half bottle of Domaine du Vieux Telégraphe 2009) was the Château de la Gardine Cuvée des Génerations Gaston Philippe 2009.
Well-balanced, concentrated yet still keeping some of its elegance this red blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre was juicy, deep and long tasting.
Chateauneuf du Pape Chateau de la Gardine Gaston Philippe 2009
Ancient bottle shape
There are many other cellars, but this one we got recommended during our lunch at La Mére Germaine and enjoyed it a lot perhaps because of the friendly lady serving us the wines from her family’s winery as well as from other properties.
For an interesting comparison of old versus modern style wines from Châteauneuf du Pape look at these tasting choices by Eric Pfanner in New York Times July 21-22, 2012 article.
Winebeing 