Cuisine: Authentic Northern Italian.
Visit: February 2012
Price: Medium level at the bar, higher at the restaurant (yet it is the same food, although slightly shorter menu at the bar).
Chef: The Italian native Tiziano Gortan was working in the kitchen of the Milan’s only three Michelin stars restaurant at that time, as the pastry chef for the rock band U2′s Tearoom restaurant at the Clarence Hotel in Dublin, At Casa Blanca restaurant in Sardinia and other desirable places until he ended up in Aspen. His experiences with gastronomic cooking were more of an adventure for the young chef who came back to his traditional Italian roots at L’Hostaria where he creates generous Northern Italian meals.
Atmosphere: The bar is very popular since you get most of the excellent food for a much lower price than at the restaurant. There are photographs of Italy, its landscape and cities, hanging on the walls, traditional simple tables and bicycles hanging down from the ceiling of the bar. A quirky decoration in a rather traditional no fuss restaurant. It is usually very lively, packed with locals and visitors alike. Wear casual attire and you will fit in this comfortable mecca of Italian food in the Colorado’s mountains.
Food: Carpaccio in all ways from fish to meat is one of the main entry focuses of the menu. The thinly sliced Bresaola (Italian cured beef) is served over slightly bitter arugula salad and generously covered by shaved parmesan. It is a great starter especially if you order a bottle of red wine. There is also the local Colorado Buffalo, rather French minced Beef Tartar as well as the very Italian Smoked Swordfish carpaccio, all of a superb quality so just choose what your palate dictates and it is unlikely that you will be disappointed.
One of my Italian favourites the thinly sliced veal tenderloin with the soundly Italian name Vitello Tonnato was seductively peering out at me from the menu so I just had to try it. As I sliced the thin veal and embalmed it generously into a light tuna sauce patted on the top my critical eye approved the tender texture and an abundance of the sauce. Then on the plate I was reassured that the chef really knows well what he does enjoying the refreshing and savoury capers and crispy beet chips together with the veal delicacy.
Another temptation in the form of the Insalata d’Astice or an abundant salad of raw lobster tail, grilled zucchini, artichoke puree, cherry tomato confit, accompanied by red and green pesto, is also worth recommending. The lobster was tender and fresh and the ingredients intensely emphasised the Italian soul of this filling salad. There are also some soups and other salads on the menu.
Moving to the mains one can choose from a wide selection of freshly made pastas, fish such as Branzino (sea-bass) and typical Northern Italian meat courses such at the Cotoletta alla Milanese.
The Milanese is a large breaded veal chop flipped over green arugula and checca-style tomatoes. If done properly this is a serious contender of the Austrian Wiener schnitzel. Thinly pounded veal is though more tender, soft and more reliant of the crunchy bread coat than its Austrian thicker version usually made with other types of meat such as pork or chicken.
The desserts are not less tempting so keep some space for them or at least get the Selection of Italian cheeses served with walnuts, crispy bread and honey. If it is four of you sharing the table, then you can get a special selection of four desserts and taste more of the sweets. Just to highlight some – the Tiramissu is heavenly, the saliva-inducing Torta di Gelato al Pistacchio (pistachio ice cream cake with sabayon sauce on the picture) or the slightly tipsy Selezione di Biscotti e Vin Santo (selection of Italian Cookies and sweet wine Vin Santo from Tuscany) are all worth rising the blood sugar levels.
Drinks: The wine list is excellent. There is a wide choice of Italian wines, which have proved to me over the years being the most suitable for the Italian food. We went for a bottle of a red Barbera di Alba from Piedmont and managed to enjoy it with all the diverse dishes. The Veal Milanese and the Bresaola were the best match though. Of course you can have the un-Italian fluffy-milky cappuccino after your dinner as most of the Italians would never have it (cappuccino is drunk only during the morning in Italy, later only espresso or the small and strong piccolo is sociably acceptable) or a cup of tea. After all you are in the mountains and tea feels good at any time of the day.
Opening Hours: Daily only for dinner from 5:30–10:30 pm.
Address: 620 E Hyman Ave, Aspen, CO 81611, USA.
Contact: Tel: +1 (970) 925-9022