Casa Cri: hidden Italian gem in St Tropez

Cuisine: traditional Italian

Visit: July 2012

Price: Medium high (see the menu board bellow).

Eating in a garden in St Tropez might be a dream of many travelers. At Casa Cri the dream comes true and it is not too fancy as in other similar establishments in St Tropez.

The menu board at Casa Cri

Atmosphere: Friendly, energetic and casual. The service is like your uncle handing you a plate of great food cooked by your grand mother, it feels very homey and friendly. Sitting under the giant old trees in the garden brings the right tunes to your holidays. Relaxed, enjoyable and

Food: Authentic, unpretentious and based on high quality ingredients.

From the appetizers if one wants go for something fresh and light the Carpaccio di carciofi (Artichoke carpaccio) would be the right option. It is served with a refreshing and slightly bitter green rocket, parmesan and olive oil adding a bit of mild texture. If you do not like raw artichoke with its harsh texture then this carpaccio is not for you though.

Bresaola carpaccio with rocket and parmesan

Try a meat version of the Bresaola carpaccio also covered with rocket and parmesan shavings. This one I liked much more. The delicate and soft bresaola is so lean and savory, that I could have a plate of it twice. An excellent starter with an elegant red wine.

There are many main courses like Veal Milanese or Branzino (Sea bass) whetting ones appetite at Casa Cri, yet the pasta is the reason to come here. Their pastas are simply perfect. I wish I could cook pasta like the Italians do, it is something about doing it XX times so one masters it so well that it is perfect almost always. Cooked al dente (not too soft texture) and tossed with the sea shells, sea food, juicy tomatoes and aromatic fresh herbs, I devoured the linguini in a matter of a minute or two, how great they were. The red chianti we ordered was my helpful guide aiding my metabolism.

Linguine di frutti di mare – Seafood linguini

The desserts are very popular at Casa Cri. Just looking at your neighbor’s table and you hardly resist. From tiramisu, panna cotta and chilling and refreshing sorbetto served in fruit shells you can also get fresh fruits like pineapple or strawberries.

Drinks: I rarely have Italian food with other wine than from Italy. The Italian wines are made for their food as the curvy Florence was made for magnificent hillside pallazos. My brain and my palate desired a chianti, so Castello di Ama won me over. What a great wine! With my bresaola carpaccio as well as with the Seafood linguini it worked marvels. The rich tomato sauce in the pasta made them suitable for this deep yet elegant red wine. The perfect balance of flavors is what the Italians have mastered over the centuries of their love affair with food.

Opening hours: From April till October from 7:30 pm, except July and August, closed on Mondays

Contact: Tél. + 33 (0)4 94 97 42 52

Address: 12 Rue Étienne Berny 83990 Saint-Tropez, France ( It is a tiny street so do not miss it.)

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L’Escale in the port of St Tropez

Cuisine: French contemporary, seafood

Visit: July 2010

Price: High if you get the steak or seafood platter, which goes to very high depending on how many of you are sharing it.

L’Escale – the legendary St Tropez establishment

Atmosphere: On a beach day and night – that is L’Escale. Sand covers the floors of the white decorated restaurant, but ladies can switch from flip-flops to sexy high heels as this place is all about fun, great food and in later hours dancing on the white sofas lining elegantly along the walls. It can get pretty wild here late at night. If you come around 9pm though be relaxed and bring your all family over as it is a refreshing hangout. Sitting in the forefront part of the restaurant is undoubtedly the utmost holiday experience – an open roof, views of the super-busy St Tropez port and dipping your toes into the sandy floors cannot be more “vacation!!” screaming. A party frock or a comfy linen pants, both will make you feel in accord with the place.

Food: Seafood rules at L’Escale. Sharing the Seafood platter is a favorite starter or a main course for many tables. The lobster and crab are particularly delicious. The cra is a lot of work though, so you might end up cracking lots of shells and get just a tiny piece of meat.

Not in love with seafood? Then a Beef Steak or Chicken will be the right thing for you. There are also some Japan-inspired appetizers such as Tuna tartar, which has been my long-time favorite appetizer. Thinly chopped tuna is accompanied by tasty sauce and condiments making it an ideal light dish before going out to party.

Seafood platter with lobster and oysters

L’escale’s signature dish on the menu are the Fried squids. They are tender and meaty, not chewy as squids tend to be in most of pubs, bars and fast-food establishments. Aromatic with herbs and not too ‘bready’ as the crumble is just sensibly coating the squid rings. Squeeze of lemon adds even more freshness and a sip of a crisp white wine a party feel (ok beer is great with this meal too). A glass of Sauvignon Blanc from Loire like Sancerre is my favorite with this kind of seafood.

L’Escale’s squids

Another fishy starter I recommend even as a main course, if you had too much seafood from the platter, is the Smoked salmon with blini and condiments. The intense smoked fish goes perfectly with the pancake-like blini and herb-infused cream sauce. I had a mineral Chablis from Burgundy with it and was in high spirits while enjoying this timeless dish. If you decide to dance at this point, this is perfect dish to take. It is cold so no worries about eating it for an hour or more.

Smoked salmon with a giant blini

Drinks: Great wine list for a restaurant with party atmosphere. There is a great bar with a Dj playing great music in the middle of the scene, so it is worth to have an aperitif before your dinner or lunch (the lunch has a different breeze though – it is more relaxed). There is champagne by the glass and myriad of cocktails to choose from. The wine list is French and we usually get a white (Chardonnay) or red Burgundy (Pinot Noir) or white wine (Sauvignon Blanc) from Loire Valley since they go very well with the seafood-oriented food on the menu.

Opening hours: Lunch and dinner (late-second seating after 10:30pm) daily in the season from April to October.

Contact: Tel: +33 4 94 97 00 63

Address: 9 Quai Jean Jaurès, 83 990 Saint Tropez, France

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Le Strand in St Tropez

Cuisine: contemporary mediterranean – French and Italian

Visit: July 2012

Price: medium to high (appetizers – €10-20; mains €19 and above with average around €25 and lobster according to weight above €50)

Le Strand is conveniently located near the St Tropez’ Citadelle, away from the town’s crowds. It still though a cool place, just not as noisy as the restaurants in the port. Another big plus is its courtyard where eating becomes a refreshing escape from a hotel room. Its fashionable sister restaurant in Saint Barth’s (Caribbean) is not known for excellent food, but The Strand in St Tropez amends the reputation with high quality seafood, fish as well as meat and fresh vegetables.

Interior of The Strand from access-sttropez.com

Atmosphere: Modern elegant inside and refreshing on the terrace under the trees where a Dj plays ear-pleasing lounge tunes each night of the summer season. During the summer most people prefer the outside seating, therefore it is better to mention your desire when making your reservation. The service is very friendly and accommodating. Do not hesitate to ask for a better table if the restaurant is not full yet.

Food: Modern yet with a traditional French and Italian base. The olive bread is fresh and crunchy, making for a perfect teaser before your dinner. Just do not eat more than one bun and leave some space for the good food that is about to come.

From the more local French appetizers I like the Asparagus served with poached egg and truffles. Enjoyable with a glass of champagne or a crisp dry white wine, this dish breaks the wine and food pairing guides’ misconception that eggs go hardly with wine. Adding zesty and crunchy asparagus as well as aromatic black truffles makes

Asparagus with poached egg and truffles

The Italian Burrata mozzarella with tomato salad is incredible here. A creamy texture of the cheese and an original take on the tomatoes traditionally accompanying this starter make it a hard-to-resist temptation.

The fish on the menu is all local and fresh. The Sea bass and barigoule artichoke may look a bit dull, but it is very good. The fish has a delicate texture, the vegetables are cooked to crispness and the soft artichoke balances the dish out with its mellowness. An olive oil, onion and chopped veggies-based condiment adds a bit of zest and juice to the fish, but it did not work for me with the vegetables served with the dish.

Sea bass with artichoke

For those not finding their favorite on the menu, the fish of the day are presented by your waiter on a tray before you order, so you might find your catch there. Encountering the robust lobster, one hardly resists. The Grilled lobster is excellent. Delicate, juicy and melting in your mouth you might even skip the sauces served with it. If you are lucky on the day you dine at The Strand, the lobster can be huge so get ready for it!

Waitress offering daily fish & lobster

From the sides going for the Mashed potatoes with truffles will not disappoint you, unless you are a fan of a super-creamy and buttery à la Joel Robuchon take on this traditional French accompaniment to a meal. At the Strand the mash is more of a home style with crumbles of potatoes traceable in your mouth, the truffles add a festive touch.

Beef and veal dominate the meat dishes on the menu. The Italian Beef Rossini is very good.

I rarely get a dessert here, not that they would look unappetizing, but my favorite ice cream seller in France (Barbarac) is just a five-minute stroll along the port, so I must keep my sweet tooth on leash until then.

Drinks: The bar (Champagne lounge) is convenient for a drink while you might be waiting for your table. I have never had a cocktail there, but the champagne and French wines by the glass will certainly uplift your spirit before a dinner. The wine list is all French wine and champagne with medium high price points prevailing. When we eat seafood we get a bottle of Burgundy and when meat then we tend to go for Cotes du Rhone or Bordeaux.

Opening hours: in season from May-October: every evening from 7:30 pm

Contact: +33 4 94 97 43 22

Address: 2 Rue du Petit Bal, 83990 Saint-Tropez, France

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